Words by Alessandra Conti
With 1.240 brands, 30.000 visitors and many collateral events Pitti Immagine Uomo is giving a lot to Florence: transforming an international trade fair in a fashion week that can compete with an italian fashion cornerstone like Milan.
Inside one of the many and busy pavilions at Fortezza da Basso, I made a beautiful discovery in the new collection designed by Pierre Louis Mascia - easy to wear unisex pieces (shirts, trousers, shawls, kimonos and kaftans) in a triumph of colors and silk crafted in Italy by Achille Pinto.
This season menswear guest designer was the londoner Craig Green. He presented his Spring/Summer 2019 collection with a runway show inside the spectacular Giardino di Boboli, which were the Medici (Grand Dukes of Tuscany) gardens until the 18th century, and still today is decorated with ancient sculptures some of which from the Roman empire keeping alive his unique charme. Now a days Green is definitely one of the most brave men’s designer and this collection prove it again. His main inspirations were the daily uniforms worn by the “angels of our times”: cleaners, surgeons, delivery workers. I have to say that there was something very florentine about this collection, it has exactly almost all the colour shades of Pontormo’s breathtaking painting La Deposizione, here in Florence in the church dedicated to Santa Felicita just few hundred meters away from Boboli; also the 3D angels print has definitely something in common with another great florentine painter called Fra Angelico, a friar of the Dominican order who painted in his Florentine monastery of San Marco a sacred scene in each monk’s cell. I almost feel that showing for the first time in Florence, after 11 collection in London, changed Green’s vision for this collection.
A completely different setting was made by Studio Azzurro at Stazione Leopolda for the Herno L.I.B.R.A.R.Y (Let Imagination Break Rules And Reveals Yourself) exhibition to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the brand made in Italy. The “still life” show presented the past and the future of the brand, with a beautiful outerwear piece called “In Un Abbraccio” designed by Polimoda Fashion Design student Benedetta Giannessi.
During this 94th Pitti Uomo edition, Polimoda the best italian fashion institute, presented at Manifattura Tabacchi the catwalk “Separate Collection”, where 21 students showcased their final year creations. A jury composed by predominant international fashion figures like: Olya Kuryshchuk, Sam Cotton, Laudomia Pucci and Diet Prada founders - just to name a few - awarded Giunia Guerra as best designer, even if many looks were memorable like the H2O inspired menswear collection by Federica Meyer zu Schwabedissen.
A parallel event, organized by Polimoda’s students who didn’t make it to the final show, was held at Convitto Della Calza like in a fashion oriented “Salon des Refusés”. Thirtythree emerging designers, united together in a collective called Antitude, did their best to show their personal world to the public and the fashion industry.
This summer Pitti was full of surprises, events, shows and presentations (so many that I can’t mention all) and we all really look forward to see what is coming next!